HAMBURG, the maritime and media center of Germany, is a city of jarring juxtapositions. The industrial waterfront heaves with hoary docks, while its center field is filled with emerald parks, amobarbital sodium lakes and cream-colored villas. sexual activity workers ply their craft along the neon-lit Reeperbahn, while old-money families have made this Baroque port into Germany ‘s richest city. And despite playing second toy to the cultural juggernaut that is Berlin, Hamburg breeds its own stigmatize of the cosmopolitan cool — with a large turkish population, cheery enclaves and fashion centers — who mingle at chic restaurants and muggy underground clubs. Where else but this high-low city can you window-shop for Cartier rhombus necklaces during the day and slum it with punk rocker rockers at night ? FRIDAY 3 p.m.
1) INNER-CITY REGATTA much of life in Hamburg takes put along the water, specially along the Binnenalster ( Inner Alster ), a swan-filled lake flanked by glamorous hotels and luxury boutiques. But you wo n’t be the alone tourist. For a less-trodden introduction to this watery city, walk north to the Aussenalster ( Outer Alster ), a bombastic lake surrounded by parks and trees. If the weather is nice, you ‘ll find an external desegregate of Hamburgers lounging at A. Mora ( An five hundred Alster ; 49-40-2805-6846 ; www.a-mora.com ), a slinky newfangled cafe at the edge of a little marina. Order a Alsterwasser ( Carlsberg beer and Sprite ), and watch couples in seersucker and caftans take out their sailboats.
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2) MELLOW BRICK ROAD For a glance at Hamburg ‘s diverseness, stroll down Lange Reihe, a brick-lined street behind the Hamburg Hauptbahnhof, the main coach post. The constrict lane is home to asian markets, Middle Eastern change of location agencies and a pageant of rainbow flags for gay-friendly cafe and hair salons that have Americanized names like Cut’n Cruise. besides check out Koppel 66 ( www.koppel66.de ), a born-again factory that houses 15 artisans. They include Stefan Fink ( 49-40-24-71-51 ; www.stefanfink.de ), who turns exotic woods and 18-karat nib into spring pens from 1,200 euros to 4,500 euros ( about $ 1,700 to $ 6,400 at $ 1.42 to the euro ). image
The flea market hums on Saturdays.
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Denny Lee/The New York Times
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3) NACKT CHEF A navy of fishing boats and rising young chefs help keep local specialties like Aalsuppe ( eel soup ) off the menu. Among the most talked-about restaurants is Das Weisse Haus ( Neumühlen 50, Övelgönne, 49-40-39-09-016 ; www.das-weisse-haus.de ), which is owned by the celebrity television chef Tim Mälzer — known as the Jamie Oliver of Germany. It is housed in an old fisherman ‘s bungalow and sports an disingenuously low-key décor and even subtler menu : there is none. You plainly tell the waiter how athirst you are, along with your food allergies and dislikes, and the kitchen whips up a buzz-worthy meal. My four-course dinner ( 36 euro ) included a honey almond salad with watermelon and rack of lamb with tarragon hollandaise. Make your reservations early .